Fiscalgrove

New Zealand Refinance & Refix Calculator

Compare your current rate with a new one, allow for switching costs, a fixed-rate break fee, and any cash contribution, and see your monthly saving and break-even point.

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Legal and valuation costs when moving to a new bank. Close to $0 if you are refixing with your current bank.

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A one-off cash contribution the new bank may offer to switch. It can be clawed back if you leave within a few years.

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Charged if you exit a fixed rate before it ends. Ask your bank for a current figure; leave at $0 when refixing at term end or on a floating rate.

Monthly saving$223.91
Current monthly repayment$3,406.55
New monthly repayment$3,182.64
Net upfront cost-$1,500.00Switching costs plus break fee, minus any cash contribution
Break-even point0 monthsTime for the monthly saving to cover the net upfront cost

How this calculator works

The calculator works out your repayment on your current rate and on the new rate, over the same balance and remaining term, and takes the difference as your monthly saving. It then compares that saving against what it costs to switch:

Net upfront cost = switching costs + break fee − cash contribution

The break-even point is the net upfront cost divided by the monthly saving, rounded up to whole months. If the new rate is not lower, there is no saving to recoup the cost, and the calculator says so rather than showing a misleading figure. For a refix with your current bank, set switching costs and the break fee to zero.

Worked example

Say you owe $500,000 with 27 years left, currently paying 6.9%, and you can move to 6.2%. The lower rate trims the monthly repayment by a few hundred dollars. Switching to a new bank costs about $1,500 in legal and valuation work, but the new bank offers a $3,000 cash contribution, so your net upfront cost is negative, which means the switch pays from day one. Add a break fee for leaving a fixed rate early and the break-even moves out, which is why timing a switch for when your fixed term ends usually costs the least.

What changes the answer

  • The rate gap — the difference between your current and new rate drives the whole saving.
  • Break fee — the main cost of switching mid-fix; it can be large when rates have fallen.
  • Cash contribution — reduces your upfront cost, but mind the clawback if you might move again soon.
  • How long you will keep the loan — the longer you stay past break-even, the more the switch is worth.

A note on accuracy

This calculator compares repayments on full, unrounded figures and rounds only for display. It assumes the same balance and remaining term on both sides and does not calculate the break fee for you, since each bank works it out differently; ask your bank for a current figure. For general guidance, see Sorted, and our methodology for the formulas and sources.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between refinancing and refixing?

Refixing means choosing a new rate with your current bank when a fixed term ends. It is quick, usually free, and carries no break fee. Refinancing means moving your loan to a different bank, which can involve legal and valuation costs, a break fee if you leave a fixed rate early, and often a cash contribution from the new bank. This calculator handles both: for a refix, leave the switching costs and break fee at zero.

What is a break fee?

If you exit a fixed rate before it ends, the bank charges a break fee to recover the interest it expected to earn. It roughly reflects the gap between your fixed rate and current wholesale rates over the time left on your fix, so it can be large when rates have fallen and near zero when they have risen. Banks calculate it their own way, so ask yours for a current figure and enter it here.

What is a cash contribution, and can it be clawed back?

To win your business, a new bank often pays a cash contribution, commonly a few thousand dollars, toward your switching costs. It usually comes with a clawback condition: if you leave within a set period, often three to four years, you repay some or all of it. Factor that in if you might move again soon, and treat the contribution as reducing your upfront cost rather than as free money.

How do I know if switching is worth it?

Compare the monthly saving from the lower rate against the net upfront cost, which is your switching costs plus any break fee, minus any cash contribution. The break-even figure is the number of months of saving it takes to cover that cost. If you will keep the loan well past the break-even point, switching usually pays; if you might move or repay soon, it may not.

Should I wait until my fixed term ends?

Often, yes. Refixing or refinancing at the point your fixed rate rolls over avoids a break fee entirely, which is usually the largest cost of switching early. If you are partway through a fixed term, weigh the break fee against the saving; a large enough rate drop can still make an early switch worthwhile, but the break fee has to be worth paying.

Does switching banks affect anything else?

Yes. A new bank reassesses your application, so your income, expenses, and the current loan-to-value and debt-to-income rules all apply again, and there will be a credit check. If your equity or income has changed since you first borrowed, that can affect the rate or amount on offer. This calculator focuses on the rate saving and switching costs, not the full reassessment.